David Barco, President of the Galician Association of Sommeliers, AGASU
"The wine of the Ribeira Sacra is a jewel"
When and how did you first make contact with the D.O. Ribeira Sacra?
Throughout my professional life I always knew that the Ribeira Sacra was a very important wine growing region. I have a special affection for the region because it is an area that is very difficult to cultivate and harvest the grapes. Luckily, it is in Galicia and is an asset to our region. The first contact I had was with the wine of the area, but I am aware of its other attractions, the countryside, the food, the architecture,...
The Ribeira Sacra, as a whole, what opinion do you have, how would you define it?
As a magical place. An evocative region. It should be better known because it is a great region for rural activities, rural tourism and wine tourism, it should highlight these options.
Have you ever come for the grape harvest in the Ribeira Sacra?
No I haven´t because during the grape harvest I usually have a lot of professional work to do, but I don´t rule it out.
What do you imagine the work to be like?
They are heroes, there are only three or four other comparable areas, Priorato, Aosta...Going up those steep slopes, those terraces, those gradients,... it´s a superhuman endeavour. Knowing how the grapes are harvested, how the wine is made, the wine of the Ribeira Sacra is a jewel.
The difficulties of the work, the soil, the climate, do they add value to these wines?
Yes, the fact that machinery can´t go in, the transportation to the bodegas, going up those slopes,.. Also it is an ideal region for wine production. If you add to this the professionalism in all areas you have, in brief, the Ribeira Sacra wines at their peak.
Does the hardship of the work translate to the wine?
I believe that the hardship gives flavour, structure, and passes into the mouth. There are people that work hard in the world of wine, most significantly in the Ribeira Sacra, that the hardship and the work involved must be recompensated at the end. It has to be recognised by the sommeliers, in my case, and the restaurant trade in general.
How do the wines of the Ribeira Sacra compare with the other D. O.s?
They have a freshness. They are unique wines, with balsamic flavours, Atlantic wines with a lot of fresh red and black fruits, a refreshing acidity that doesn´t harm the palate. It´s very easy to fall in love with these wines and if we talk about the barrel-aged wines, we can also talk about a fine accompaniment to high cuisine.